Despite having the most wonderful time with so many friends in the UK and Croatia, there was something about land that is corrupt. “Boats and people rot in the harbours.” Being away from it all, escaping into an unknown blue universe was an elixir fix I needed the most. I said to Neptune: “Get me out of here!”
We set off from Falmouth with no fixed plan except to complete the cruise we were planning on Kokachin’s launch two years ago, but then we ran out of time. During our short but mesmerising stop-over at Scillies Neptune (who, unlike me, does not waste his words!) said: “One will have to go a very long way to find something better than this!”. We love the Isle of Scillies.
With no favourable weather for a crossing to the West Coast of Ireland (our original idea), and with Roger expecting us in Scotland, we decided to head straight North. An overnight sail up St George’s Channel into the Irish Sea with strong following winds was nice and easy. Flying at 8-9 knots at times we made it to Bangor, Northern Ireland, in 36 hours, excited. We set off the next day with some very big swell, in gusty S force 3 winds, rain and poor visibility, avoiding reefs and rocks. We peaked at the coastline through the mist, admiring sweeping green hills with an odd farmhouse or tiny cove harbours here and there. It was a rural, fable like world, wrapped in its own bubble.
With strong S4+ following wind, big seas, and eventually under foresail only, we safely arrived at Red Bay (NI). When the mist lifted, and the low black clouds passed, the grey world of the whole big bay was suddenly transformed, bathing in the most stunning sunlight glare, making everything golden. The sparkling green, fairy tale mountains encircled us. I could not stop marvelling at this enchanting, intensely rich, beauty of this wonderland.
With plenty of room to sail off the anchor in gusty W6 we set off at 6am along NI coast. We had very rough seas, strong currents and wind as we battled around Cushendun heading NNE towards Scotland across the notorious North Channel. Well reefed we crossed its rough seas in poor visibility and gusty NW5-6 wind. Kokachin joyfully sailed along with Neptune at the helm, full of masterful tricks, giving orders and me (surprisingly!) faultlessly fulfilling them. I worked hard on sail adjustments as gusts hit us, or the wind dropped and we slowed down. With all my might I sheeted the beast of the mainsail, generally stretching on deck and pushing with my legs to gain leverage, running out of the last ounce of strength while Neptune, concentrating, held hard onto the helm - Kokachin being hard to steer. We worked as a well oiled team during this challenging and enjoyable crossing. Full of apprehension, in excitement, in the middle of those rough seas, exhausted, I kissed Neptune just for being there with me. Seas smoothed down once we were well past the Kintyre Peninsula. Then the wind dropped off and the current seemed to be against us as we sailed slowly, to windward, to Gigha.
Once in Scotland there was no end to my amazement and marvelling at the breathtakingly beautiful landscape. Scattered rocky islands surrounded us everywhere, offering its numerous bays. Mountainous coastline stretched for miles on end, its pointy peaks etching the skyline behind each other. Narrow lochs dug deep in, branching into many imposing openings. Dark clouds and persistent mist, not to mention gusty winds and surprising currents added to the mystery. On days when the sun shone and the wind died down, we drifted on oily smooth seas in 40+ miles visibility.
Overlapping layers of distant folds of land, in different shades of blue, came together in all its glory offering us an uninterrupted 360 degrees view of the most stunning scenery. It was dizzyingly beautiful. I was smitten.
We got to Roger, in Loch Carron, after the Sky Bridge ‘adventure’, anchoring just off his tea plantation croft. After a delicate tea tasting ritual, and on inspecting the boat he is building, he took us for a day long drive along the local area and through Loch Torridon, in blazing sunshine. It gave us a unique opportunity to admire the mountains from a different perspective. We celebrated his birthday and Kokachin’s anniversary too! Five days later, on leaving, we picked up a huge ball of kelp wrapped around our chain. It took Neptuen 45 minutes to hack with the machete while we were slowly drifting out with the tide. Occasionally towards the rocks….
Sailing was exciting, demanding fun. Surprises came in many different disguises. Be it for the gusty winds, strong currents, adverse tides, overfalls, rocks, challenging narrows and shallows. In any combination or all of them at once - we had to be on our guards. There were many memorable sailing days (The Sound of Mull, Ardnamurchan Point, Loch Scavaig….). And some moments that I’d rather forget (the Sky Bridge!), when all went eventually well, were it not for my mind running in overdrive with horror visions of: “What if,…. Get me out of here ! “ There were a large number of sailing boats about up to Tobermory, occasionally sailing but generally motoring!. They petered out as we passed Ardnamurchan Point - considered the Cape Horn of Scotland.
We anchored some way off Badachro village (Gairloch), thinking we would not be able to get ashore because the gardens from two houses in the bay stretched all the way down to the beach. No sooner than we dropped anchor someone started paddling towards us, probably to ask us to move on. Not at all. James arrived in his kayak with the broadest of the smiles, full of fascination and curiosity about such an unusual boat and rig. In no time he invited us for tea, which we gladly accepted, brought us logs for the fire, let us use his car, checked regularly if we needed anything (water, shower, food) and was even offering us cash if we had none! We hope to be able to repay his kindness and generosity sometime.
There was no end to our joy, when we met with “Badger”. The famous boat Neptune built with Annie 40 years ago and extensively sailed, then sold to Alan & Gloria who still own her. Neptune, not having seen her for 23 years, was visibly and atypically moved. Still in immaculate condition, Neptune’s incredible craftsmanship shone inside and out, and when sailing - she was totally admirable. I fully understood where her fame and following came from. Credit to Gloria and Alan (now 86 and still going strong!) too, for taking good care of her. As if one Badger was not enough, another Badger sistership “Constance” sailed into the bay to join us. What a surprise and delight.
I dreaded the thought of sailing South down the Irish Sea, reputed for its rough sea and temperamental weather. I feared that I might have to pay-back for our easy flight North. With apprehension I approached the passage as Southerly winds were forecasted. Surprisingly, the worst memory was in the overfalls of shallow waters near India Bank / South of Dublin, in totally benign winds, when a wall of water hit us. Kokachin dived. We survived. I had to take many deep breaths to keep myself calm! From Bangor (NI) to Port Cardigan - Fishguard (Wales) our progress was slow and hard, marred by adverse currents and light headwinds. We made it in 3.5 days - the payback was not that dear!
We have sailed to many amazing places in the World, but the West Coast of Scotland, right on our doorsteps, is one of the best cruising grounds you could find…. despite the cold! Our wood burning stove was on most evenings for most of the 3 months. We wore hats, gloves, scarves and thermals until reaching Wales. It was all worth it.
Kokachin, launched two years ago and with 20,000 miles in her wake, is ready for some maintenance and a well deserved rest. As for us - no rest for the wicked! We are now anchored in front of Southdown Marina, Plymouth UK, lifting her out within a day….
Dealing with two demanding Princesses was a bit much for Neptune. When an attractive old flame unexpectedly came along, he jumped at the opportunity to abandon at least one of them! Guess which one, for who or what, and where he is off to !?
Will keep you posted.
Ahoy!
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